Apricot vs Sour cherry

Apricot and Sour cherry are both good choices if you want your own fruit. The data below shows where they differ: size, pollination, harvest, hardiness, care and price.

Illustration of Apricot

Apricot

Prunus armeniaca 4 m × 4 m after 10 years

A fruit tree that covers itself in white to pink blossom in early spring before the leaves, then gives fragrant fruit from early to midsummer that…

Fruit
Full sun
from about CZK 300
Illustration of Sour cherry

Sour cherry

Prunus cerasus 4 m × 3.5 m after 10 years

Sour cherry is a smaller and less demanding fruit tree than sweet cherry: it flowers later, so spring frost takes the crop less often, and it copes…

Fruit
Full sun
Part shade
from about CZK 250

Key differences

  • Sour cherry needs less care than Apricot.

  • Apricot is harvested in June–August, Sour cherry in June–July (an estimate: sources differ).

Which one to choose?

Sour cherry is the better choice if you have little time for care.

Watch out for

Apricot
In Central Europe the crop is most often lost to spring frost: the tree flowers early, blossom and fruitlets are damaged at just 1 to 2 °C below zero, and hard frost returning after mild winter days also harms buds and shoots. The other major problem is apoplexy, when a branch or the whole tree dies suddenly in midsummer; it results from several pathogens combined with stress (frost, winter pruning, wounds, waterlogging) and cannot be cured with sprays. So never prune an apricot in winter: do it at the red-bud stage or after harvest in late summer, in dry weather, and seal the cuts. In cool, wet weather at flowering Monilia blossom blight kills flowers and shoots, so spray at the start and end of flowering and cut diseased shoots back to healthy wood. Gummosis, shot hole, leaf spot, plum pox virus (marked fruit and stones), peach twig borer and oriental fruit moth are also common. Overall a demanding tree: it needs regular preventive spraying and careful summer pruning, and can still be shorter-lived than other fruit trees.
Sour cherry
In Central Europe the key problem of sour cherry is Monilia blossom and shoot blight: in a cool, rainy flowering period the blossoms turn brown, the twigs die back within days, and without control the crown becomes bare in a few years. Cut diseased parts back to healthy wood and spray susceptible varieties at flowering, or choose a more resistant variety. Cherry leaf spot (Blumeriella) can defoliate the tree by midsummer and weaken it. Cherry fruit fly (the European species and the later-flying eastern one) also infests sour cherries, and birds take part of the crop. It struggles on waterlogged, heavy and strongly acidic soils.

The data side by side

Feature
Apricot
Sour cherry
Group Fruit Fruit
Size after 10 years 4 m × 4 m (uncertain) 4 m × 3.5 m (uncertain)
Ultimate size 3–8 m × 3–6 m (uncertain) 3–8 m × 3–6 m (uncertain)
Growth rate Medium Medium
Light Full sun Full sun, Part shade
Soil Average garden soil, Sandy, Calcareous Average garden soil, Sandy, Calcareous
Hardiness down to -29 °C (USDA 4, RHS H7) down to -34 °C (USDA 4, RHS H7)
Heat tolerance High Medium (uncertain)
Foliage Deciduous Deciduous
Flowering March–April, white, pink April–May, white (uncertain)
Harvest June–August (uncertain) June–July
Self-fertile yes yes
Water need Medium Medium
Drought tolerance Medium Medium
Maintenance High Medium
Planting distance 500 cm 500 cm
For dogs Toxic Toxic
For cats Toxic Toxic
For children Mildly toxic (uncertain) Mildly toxic (uncertain)
Typical price approx. CZK 380 approx. CZK 250

Prices are rounded, indicative values. Toxicity data is for information only. If your pet or child has eaten a plant, contact a vet or a doctor. Data updated: October 17, 2026

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